Years removed from war, Iraqis explore new desert adventures

Iraqi campers gather around a fire in the early morning in the Samawa desert south of Baghdad on February 3, 2024.(Photo by Hussein FALEH / AFP)

Away from the commotion of urban centers, a growing number of young Iraqis are seizing the opportunity to discover the serene desert escapes that their country has to offer.

Sheltering amidst the golden dunes, Ghadanfar Abdallah and his friends gather around a flickering campfire in the Samawah desert south of the capital, humming tunes, laughing and eating.

“When we post pictures, people do not believe that there are such places like the dunes in Iraq,” the 35-year-old oil sector worker said.

“My friends ask me if the pictures were taken in Dubai. They are shocked when they learn that they were, in fact, in Iraq.”

For years, only the most intrepid of hikers and campers would brave the trips into Iraq’s desert. But with the rise of social media and a period of relative stability, it has become a popular destination for those seeking not only adventure and off-roading but also tranquility in the vast, barren landscape.

“It is something I loved since I was a little boy. But I only started doing it with friends in the winter of 2018 or 2019,” Abdallah said.

He crossed 200 kilometers (125 miles) from his southern city of Basra to reach an area untouched by the trappings of urban life, including phone networks.

On a crisp winter weekend, around 20 campers set up their tents amid the serene dunes. The air filled with the aroma of carp grilling over a smoky wood fire, as the hikers prepared to feast on Iraq’s national dish, masgouf.

Later, some played dominoes while others bickered overheated games of backgammon, sipping hot cups of tea and smoking hookahs (water pipe). Their voices resonated with traditional Iraqi songs, their laughter piercing the still desert night.

Abdallah said such desert expeditions have “become more widespread, and today many stores sell camping gear.

“Some are starting to realise that it is safe, it is an adventure.”

But for many, the lingering sense of danger remains.

Iraq has been ravaged by successive years of conflict since the 2003 US-led invasion, including most recently the fight against the Islamic State group.

Though the jihadists were driven out of their major strongholds in late 2017, many retreated into desert hideouts, largely in the country’s west, from where they still sporadically, though with increasing rarity, stage deadly attacks.

“How can someone go to a desert where there is no water or mobile network? If something happens, how would you report it?” Abdallah said.

Iraq’s soaring summer temperatures, often surpassing 50 degrees Celsius (120 Fahrenheit), mean these arid adventures are limited to wintertime.